Search
SMW on Twitter

Trips Not To Forget

Tuesday
Oct222013

Fort Bragg Ghost Town

"I'll never forget the thrill of that uneasy feeling and being able to capture that emotion within a still photograph."

Crystal and I recently celebrated our three year anniversary and since we dont know exactly what day it falls on, we usually choose a mutually free weekend sometime in October. This year instead of heading south, we decided to journey up the northern coastline to Fort Bragg. We decided to cut through Boonville and Navarro River Redwoods State Park, where a windy road weaves in and out of giant Redwood patches bordering a beautiful river. Once we got Highway 1 the coast was socked in with thick fog that unfortunately lingered for the duration of our trip. After a great day at Glass Beach and one of the best dinners I've ever had at the MacCullum House in Mendocino, we returned to our lofty room at the BeachHouse Inn overlooking Pudding Creek. Crystal quickly fell asleep, as she so often does and I took the opportunity to grab my gear and head out for some late night fog shots. Earlier Crystal had proposed a walk in the cemetary across from our Hotel and I knew it would be a prime location to shoot in the fog. As soon as I set eyes on a eerie orange light from behind the trees on the neighboring property, I got giddy and knew that the photos were going to be special.

I snapped a few cropped and wide shots on my 16-35 mm and after hearing noises from the care takers quarters, decided to venture onward into town. After hiking a half mile through the mist, I took a turn towrads the beach. I ran into a fence bordering a withered victorian beach home community. I ended up losing my sense of direction in the thick fog and ended up in deserted downtown Fort Bragg. I captured a car crossing the intersection and had a laugh at a sign which read "Fiddles & Cameras". I then wandered into in an abondoned parking lot and found myself gazing at an old rustic-looking rain. I quickly fired off a few shots and was pleased with the angle of the orange backlighting. After getting my fill of creepy shots and hiking through a modern day ghost town, I decided to head back to the Hotel and call it a night. I'll never forget the thrill of that uneasy feeling and being able to capture that emotion within a still photograph.  

 

Thursday
Jul252013

RoadTripStoke: Oregon

 

"It quickly turned into the best scenic drive we experienced on the trip, as we headed south along the awe-inspiring coastline littered with jagged rock formations reaching out from the shallows."

After a grueling 4 month long music video project, I found myself reflecting with a cocktail on a cabin balcony in Tahoe. Usually after undertakings of this magnitude, I take a little R&R to clear my mind and re-focus. This time however, I felt like I needed a bit more than just a week of relaxation on my favorite Lake. Although I'll be honest, when my mom asked me if I wanted to go on a road trip with her to Portland, I was hesitant at first. Immediately I thought about the tortuous road trips of my youth, Madonna or Janet blasting through the speakers as my mom sang along off tune, in between stopping at every scenic overlook. I thought about it for a few days, then agreed to accompany her for the trip, with the condition I could bring my camera gear and shoot some time-lapse. A few days before departure, I was informed my little sister Megan would be joining us. I was excited and afraid at the same time, once again thinking back to days of old, when Megan and I would engage in Mortal Combat in the back seat on trips of this nature. Seeing how we are both adults and good friends now, I quickly decided that being excited was the more appropriate feeling and began to pack for our Pacific Northwest road adventure.

My mom and sister picked me up at my apartment in Santa Rosa around 8 am, we enjoyed a great local breakfast at Hillside Inn and then hit the road. We decided to cut through wine country along highway 12 and take the I-5 North to catch some views of Mt. Shasta. We all agreed that is was our mission to keep no plans. As we passed through Shasta, my mom said "How about some Madonna?" As if we were identical twins, my sister and I both proclaimed "No!" in unison. We all laughed and came to a musical comprise over an old Grammy winners cd. That afternoon we arrived in Ashland, a quaint little college town cradled in a small green mountain range. We met up with an old friend who was renting a cottage and he took us to a beautiful spot named Lithia Park. This lush sanctuary was designed by John McLaren, the same landscape architect who created Golden Gate Park. A creek with a natural high amount of Lithium runs though the middle of the park and into the downtown area. We snapped some photos and walked down to a great pub on the river called Louie's Bar & Grill. We gorged ourselves with small bites, had a few drinks before we were on our way. Earlier that day, we decided to stay in Klamath Falls after seeing a few appealing photos of a huge lake online. Once we got there, we all looked at each other and wondered if it was the right town. We stayed in a run down motel called Cinnaron nestled in the lovely industrial side of town next door to a local gambling hall. The girls immediately went to bed, but I was determined to get some time-lapse of the stars over the lake. Around 11:00 pm I drove out of town, along the lake for about 30 minutes looking for a spot to set up my time-lapse dolly. I found a little park where there was a limited amount of light pollution, as soon as I got out of the car I was swarmed by a flurry of biting insects. I jumped back in the car annoyed and drove back through town and continued South, determined to find a spot to shoot. With limited reception and a dying battery, I found myself completely lost up in the foothills of farm country. After hours of searching and less than 10% battery, I finally found service and was navigated back to the room unsatisfied. 

The next morning, eager to put Klamath Falls in our rearview, we hit the road and pushed north towards Crater Lake. We traveled through bright green valleys before traversing up a mountain side and stopping to peer into a seemingly bottomless ravine. About an hour later, we veered around a steep mountain side to witness the bluest lake I've ever set eyes on. We spent an hour turning out and taking photos before heading down the mountain along the Umpqua River. We were all hungry for a late lunch, so we pulled off at Steamboat Inn Cafe for a quick bite to eat. As soon as we sat down and looked out into a garden and heard the rushing river, we immediately decided to stay for the night. For just over $200 we rented a cozy two story cottage with 3 beds next to the river. The inn also offers a superb local organic four course meal for $50 a person, including bottomless local wine.   I spent hours down at the tranquil river time-lapsing Steamboat Falls before the beautiful display of colors at sunset. Then the next morning we headed for Winston, home of the Wildlife Safari with a world-renowned Cheetah breeding program. After spending about an hour driving through the park, we headed for Portland up the I-5. We booked a reasonably priced room at the Red Lion Hotel on Hayden Island, directly on the Willamette River bordering Washington. We enjoyed a delicious dinner of fresh local steelhead at the Jantzen Beach hotel restaurant. The next morning we ordered breakfast in bed and then hit the road heading south. We wanted to take the Oregon Coast Highway 101 all the way back down into California. We cut over from I-5 and hit dead stopped traffic before figuring out there was a terrible accident up ahead that could delay traffic for hours. We decided to backtrack and take a beautiful winding mountain road though the giant Redwoods until we hit the coast. It quickly turned into the best scenic drive we experienced on the trip, as we headed south along the awe-inspiring coastline littered with jagged rock formations reaching out from the shallows. As the sun set, we pulled into Bandon Beach, a old fashioned coastal town with a multitude of beach houses lining the cliffs. We ended up booking a seaside cottage at the Sunset Motel for only $180 and watched the fading purple colors dance though the fog over the rolling waves. I spent nearly the entire night time-lapsing on the beach and walking around the fog covered neighborhood, along the cliffs searching for the Lighthouse. The next morning we grabbed a tasty breakfast, the girls did some shopping and then we hit the road. Having stayed up all night shooting photos, I curled up in the backseat and drifted asleep watching the coastal redwoods fly by. After hours of winding road and a few more stops to admire the coastal coves,  we were back in California heading south towards Santa Rosa. Turns out this road trip was exactly what we all needed, a chance to leave behind the structure of everyday life and bond as a family through unforgettable experiences on the open road. 

SMW

 

Sunday
Oct142012

Desolated

"The sun scorched the clouds scarlet and orange as it died behind the majestic ranges." 

SMW Films in association with WinkMedia present: 'Desolated'; A short film about escaping the habitual fast-paced urban lifestyle and finding peace of mind within the solitude of the Sierras. The goal was to create a visually driven social commentary, about the need to break away from technology and tune into the universe through the beauty of nature. Director: Sean Michael Williams, Executive Producer: Gus Winkelman (guswinkelman.com), Starring: Matt Karpinski and The Desolation Wilderness

On October 4th 2012, Gus Winkelman, Matt Karpinski (Pink) and myself set out on a journey into the Desolation Wilderness in the El Dorado National Forest, California. After dealing with a flat tire and getting on the road late, we arrived at Echo Lake around 9:30 pm. We all got bundled up in layers of snow gear and set our headlamps to bright as we began a brutal 5 mile trek uphill to an elevation of 8,000 feet. Our backpacks weighed about 70+ pounds, with all of the camera and camping equipment unevenly balanced in each pack. We traversed around lower Echo in about an hour, yelling out 'Hey Bear!' every so often to discourage any lingering bears looking for a late season meal before a long winter. Pink lives in Colorado and is used to high elevation hikes, so he blazed the trail while blasting an Ipod playlist through small speakers in his jacket. Gus and I kept a slower pace, heaving and wheezing our way up the steep terrain in between water breaks. We eventually reached the summit where the trail evened out a bit and we briefly stopped to admire the incredibly bright belts of stars above the tree-line silhouettes on the horizon. 4 hours and 2 mountains later we arrived at Lake of the Woods and collapsed at the very first campsite we came across; Which happened to be the same site my girlfriend and I had camped at on 5 feet of snow in July the year before. We were dead tired and frozen cold from a bone chilling wind that dropped the temperature down between 0 and 10 degrees fahrenheit. We decided to build a small fire to keep from freezing to death, seeing how Gus the wilderness badass wanted to sleep under the stars without a tent. We then remembered reading a sign at the trail head saying: "$5,000 fine or 6 months in jail for camp fires". With the windchill threatening to freeze our bone marrow, we all agreed the fire was well worth the risk of either bankruptcy or imprisonment. So with a small fire built, Gus and I went down to the lake and set up 2 tripod timelapses facing different directions. We returned to the fire and shared a few sips of Jack to warm our bellies. about an hour later we broke down the cameras, doused and buried the fire, then shivered ourselves to sleep.

The next morning, I awoke to a strange voice yelling out through the campsite. "Hello! Anybody here?! Forest Ranger!" Right then I knew we were in trouble and half asleep and stumbled out of the tent to greet Ranger Rick. He was a slender older fellow with a white zinc nose and mid thigh khaki shorts. He set down his walking poles and said " Well, smells like you boys had a fire last night! mind if I take a look  around your camp? Oh and I need to see your Wilderness permit." So as I fumbled through my bag grabbing the permit, I tried to sweet talk the old timer and distract him from looking down at the semi covered fire pit. He asked me if we had a fire and I told him we only burned a small stove, long story short, he ended up giving me a $400 ticket and then was off on his merry way. Needless to say we were a bit discouraged by the set back and so we got off to a slow start that first day. Gus ended up being pretty sick when he woke up and after a few hours of moping around, we finally decided to set up the Dynamic Perception Stage 0 and Stage 1 dollies that we lugged up the mountain with us. Gus has over a year of motion controlled timelapse experience in the field and set up all the measurements for what we were trying to achieve on the stages. After getting both set up, we realized we were missing the cords to run the Stage 1. Needless to say, we were pretty annoyed by the fact we couldn't run both Stages simultaneously and that it was now pointless to even have 2 Stages. We set up 2 different motion controlled timelapses of clouds above Lake Of the Woods, then decided to pack up camp. 

When I started breaking down the Stage 1, we found the threads on the extender rails were screwed into the end piece too tight. After 30 minutes of wrenching and twisting, I finally decided to just carry the 6 foot dolly to the next Lake. We began to break down camp and pack up when I changed my socks and noticed 2 coin sized blisters on each foot. We filtered some water, I gave my feet a dip in the ice cold Lake and we mounted up and headed out to Lake Aloha. Our next destination was only a few miles away, the first mile was traversing back and forth up hill before it leveled out into the next valley. We made our way through the dry lake bed, to a patch of trees next to a small body of water. I started thinking about the last time I had been to Lake Aloha, it was full to the brim and still frozen over and covered with snow on July 4th. We decided to camp on a nice flat area under the trees and right away rigged up the Stage 1 with and our gear as the sun crept lower in the sky.

We all trekked out into the dry lake, over huge granite slabs and loose gravel. Gus and I set up a few stages of the clouds against the granite ponds as Pink climbed up the face of a ridge. Gus filmed a quick shot on the 70-200 of his silhouette against the sky which turned out pretty cool. Gus and Pink ended up heading back to set up camp, so I stayed out and ripped off a few more stages of the sun setting over the valley. The sun scorched the clouds scarlet and orange as it died behind the majestic ranges. 

When I got back to camp the boys had settled in, we were all a bit tired and dehydrated. Darkness began to creep through camp as I drank the last of my water. We cooked up some freeze dried food, then we tied up the rest over a tree out of the reach of any animals. Before long we were rigging up and heading out under cloud covered stars. I had seen a very unique looking tree sprouting out of a rock earlier that resembled a wind blown bonsai. We found the spot and set up the stage with the eastward ridge as the backdrop. We snapped off a few test shots with Pinks headlamp lighting up the tree. We dialed in the settings on the Stage0 and let the 5DMark 3 run down towards the rock. The headlamp ended up dying about 15 minutes into the timelapse which made the composition even stronger as the moon began to rise right under the tree. 

We set up a timelapse on the 7D facing the valley and captured the moon shadows running across the barren landscape. After about an hour all the clouds in the sky had disappeared and the stars glowed bright even through the moonlight. We headed to another tree that Gus and Pink had spotted earlier farther into the valley. It was a tall dead tree that ran parallel to the Milky Way as we looked upwards. So we set up the 5Dmk3 with 16-35 mm on the stage running down and angled it up, with the granite ridge anchoring the frame. 

Again we set up the 7D on sticks, shot out at the big dipper low in the sky, cradled on the northern range. Pink hike out to filter some nice and stagnate water from a nearby pool. At this point we were all feeling the effects of dehydration in the high altitude. Gus and I both felt light headed and shaky, so we decided to cut the lapse a bit short and get back to camp around 2:00 am. The boys passed out almost immediately when we arrived back at the site. I rigged up my 5D on the sticks and grabbed the lantern to head down by the small lake next to our camp. I snapped off a few test shots before getting the lighting on the grass perfect. I let the timelapse rip and about an hour later it turned out being one of my favorites of the trip. The moon shadow slowly revealed the moss and rocks, all the way from the lake to the grass. 

After breaking down the shot, I bundled up in the tent and passed out shivering. The next morning we were all struggling and thirsty. We started boiling the water we filtered, just to be safe. After rehydrating a bit and grubbing on some granola bars, we got some video of Pink with the fishing pole. Gus set up the Glidecam and we got some sweeping campground shots. We came across a manmade aqueduct in the dried lake the day before and decided to head back to get some shots. I wanted to capture a long shot of Pink walking alongside the stone bricks, into the Desolation Wilderness with his backpack on. I set up the 5D on the sticks with the 70-200 and Gus filmed from the side perspective with 7D on the GlideCam. We nailed the shots and headed back to camp to get packed up to make the trek out. Gus and I were struggling with serious dehydration, blisters and overweight packs. We ended up leaving Lake Aloha around 1 pm and 7 miles and 4 grueling hours later we were back at lower Echo. I remember staggering down the last mile of the trail weaving back and forth, switching hands carrying the 6 foot Stage 1 we couldn't break down. I ended up getting a little sick at the base and well actually...out the car on the way home, but when it was all said and done, it was well worth it. We had a brutal, but great experience and captured some amazing shots. Look for 'Desolated' coming soon to a monitor near you, November 2012. Dedicated to Matts loving Brother and my good friend Chris Karpinski, forever in our hearts.

Sean Michael Williams

Saturday
Apr212012

A Day Around Bodega Bay

My girlfriend Crystal and I headed out for a day on the coast in Bodega Bay. We crossed the hills where the blue sky ended and the coastal fog began. We decided to stop at the famous church where Alfred Hitchcock filmed 'The Birds' for a quick photo op. We continued onward after some snaps and headed for the Pacific. The cloud cover on the coast was thick and unworthy of filming, so we grabbed some fish and Chips at the BoatHouse and made our way back to Santa Rosa on the Bodega Highway. As we got further away from the coast, the blue sky emerged again and we decided to take a detour on the Bohemiem Highway up into the foggy hills. We ran into a little town called Occidental on accident and decided this quaint little mountain gem was worth exploring. As we walked down the sidewalk and gazed at all the small boutique shops, we ran into a smiling lady playing a fiddle. We decided to sit down and enjoy the soothing music. We tipped her and she agreed to let me film a few songs, as Crystal dreamily stared up at the blooming cherry blossoms. A friend of the musician had just arrived and was also listening, after the last song she put down the fiddle and began to create giant bubbles, giggling as she did so. Her friend started to tell us about a great mountain drive that we couldnt pass on. After half listening to the directions and laughing at Crytals amusement with the bubbles, we headed for the scenic highway. Running low on gas and high on curiosity, we drove the narrow one laned road through a thick forest of giant redwoods. We arrived at the top of the range where the fog quickly drifted across the green plains atop the summit. I snapped a few stills and clips before we headed back down the hill. The day was an unexpecxted pleasure and a relaxing local journey we won't soon forget. 'A Day Around Bodega Bay' short video clip coming soon.

 

A Day Around Bodega Bay